Rot looks worse from the ground than it is. It travels exactly as far as the water did and no further — so the honest scope on most calls is a board or two, not a wall. I probe to find where sound wood starts and stops, cut back to solid material, and piece in new.
The part most people skip is the reason it rotted. A gutter seam running down the back of the fascia, a missing kick-out flashing, an open caulk joint at a window head, a downspout dumping against a corner board — fix the wood without fixing the water and you are doing it again in three years. Both get handled on the same visit.
Straight talk on insurance: rot is usually not a claim. Carriers exclude long-term moisture damage as wear and maintenance, and I would rather tell you that here than after you have filed. Storm damage to wood siding and trim is different — wind tearing a board loose, a limb through a wall, hail splitting trim — and that one I document for you, and I meet the adjuster if you file. The claim stays yours.
- Rotted board cut-out and replacement — cedar lap, painted clapboard, T1-11, board and batten
- Filler repair on shallow rot — packed, sanded flush, painted to blend
- Fascia board repair and replacement, including behind the gutter line
- Soffit board repair and replacement
- Wood trim, corner boards, and window and door head rot
- Cedar and wood shake repair and re-attachment
- Aluminum fascia wrap over sound wood, when you're done repainting it
- The water source found and fixed — gutter seam, kick-out, caulk joint, downspout
- New boards cut and painted on the ground before they go up
- Storm damage to wood siding and trim documented for your insurance claim
- The NBD Pledge on all repair work — NBD backed