Question 1

Part of my wood siding is rotted — do I have to replace the whole wall?

Accepted Answer

No. Rot travels exactly as far as the water did, and that is almost always a smaller area than it looks like from the ground. I probe the board to find where sound wood starts and stops, cut back to solid material, and piece in new. On a Montgomery job the rot had broken clean through painted wood lap siding in two separate spots — both cavities got packed with exterior filler, sanded flush and painted to blend, and now you have to know where it was to see it. The wall never came off. What I will not do is skin over soft wood and call it repaired.

Question 2

How do you tell real rot from paint failure?

Accepted Answer

Peeling paint on a sound board is a paint problem and I will tell you that for free. Rot is soft — a probe sinks in with almost no pressure and the wood underneath is dark and stringy. Then I look for what put water there in the first place: a gutter running behind the fascia, a missing kick-out flashing, an open caulk joint at a trim seam, a downspout dumping against a corner board. Repairing rot without fixing the water source only buys you a couple of seasons.

Question 3

Can you match old wood siding — cedar, clapboard, T1-11, or board and batten?

Accepted Answer

Usually, and it is far easier than matching 20-year-old vinyl. Wood profiles are still milled, and paint closes the gap between a new board and an old one in a way a discontinued vinyl panel never will. Cedar lap, painted clapboard, T1-11 sheet, board and batten and cedar shake all get repaired rather than replaced more often than homeowners expect. If the profile genuinely is not available any more, you will hear that before I start, not after.

Question 4

Is rotted wood siding or fascia covered by my homeowners insurance?

Accepted Answer

Usually not, and I would rather say so up front than waste your deductible finding out. Rot from years of moisture is wear and maintenance, and carriers exclude it — no amount of documentation changes that. What IS covered is storm damage: wind that tears a board off, a limb through the siding, hail that splits trim. If a Warren County storm caused it, I document it and handle the claim the same way I do a roof. If it is rot, it is a repair you pay for, and I will price it honestly instead of dressing it up as a claim.

Question 5

Should I wrap the fascia in aluminum instead of painting it again?

Accepted Answer

It is a real option and it comes down to how tired you are of the ladder. Capping fascia in aluminum coil ends the repaint cycle — but it only works if the wood underneath is sound first. Wrapping over rot hides it and traps moisture against the board, which makes it worse quietly. So the order is: replace or repair the bad wood, then cap. I will give you both numbers, and if the board only needs paint I will tell you that too.

Question 6

Do you take small wood repair jobs, or only whole-house work?

Accepted Answer

Small ones. Two broken soffit boards in the overhang of a Cincinnati stucco two-story was a job — replacement boards cut and painted on the ground first, roof protection down before the ladders went up, both spots closed back in. A homeowner in Bethel paid me $140 for a second opinion and I found rot at a window head she had not been told about. Plenty of outfits will not schedule a half-day ladder job. I will.

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